Friday, February 1, 2013

Winter rain in Germany, recounting last summer


My attempts to keep blogs have never really been successful in timeliness or consistency of posting, so I’ll admit that. My apologies. And...here is another go:

You’ll all be relieved to hear that I have, against all odds, not gained any weight from my culinary hobbies in Italy. Maybe it waits to really pack itself on in the final weeks or something. Or maybe I’m not trying hard enough?

So, last summer was a complete gift and after finishing up my work at the vineyard, I traveled to France, Germany, Turkey, Norway, and then back to Germany and finally Italy to start my first semester of graduate school at the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies (or SAIS), Bologna Center. Some quick highlights from that:


Paris, France: I met up with the lovely Sam and Micha, as well as fellow William and Mary and DC bud Dave in Paris. The afternoon I arrived I was completely sleep-deprived, but couldn’t help but gush over everything I saw to the confused taxi driver as he drove me to meet up with everyone near the Champ de Mars. Along the Seine, every landmark was practically glowing in this hot, summer afternoon light. I think I might have overwhelmed (umm annoyed?) my three friends with my enthusiasm in light of their collective jet lag. That early evening, we ate duck fat and so forth at a nearby bistrot and then lay in the grass below the Eiffel tower until it began to sparkle.

The following day we went to the Louvre where I revisited some of my most favorite paintings from my boarding school Romanticism classes (yeah, really), such as "The Raft of the Medusa" (Here’s to tragedy and cannibalism!).  That night we ate a fantastic meal at Bistrot Paul Bert to meet my demand for steak et frites after two weeks of nothing but pasta on the farm. We went out that night by spending the whole evening at the same (gay?) bar decorated around the theme of the four elements. The place had pretty fun electronic music, and we probably made up 25% of the total patrons that night. We walked in and I think the bartender yelled “You’re here! We’ve been waiting for you!” And that was a great time.




Sainte-Preuve, France: Dave and I had a joyful reunion with W&M friend Helen and her husband Jesse at a rental car place in Paris. Not only did we stop at a truly sketch truck stop side-road hot dog stand in the countryside (who knew the French even had things like that?) for perhaps the most greasy what they called “American” sandwich, but while driving through some tiny villages, Helen and I performed the opening to Disney’s Beauty and the Beast. The part where the villagers are all popping their heads out of windows to say "Bonjour" to Belle.

Micha’s place was beautiful and had everything a group of countryside-partyers could want, including an inflatable pool, bocce, archery, airgun practice, soccer, and badminton! (perfect for Asians) Dave and I went for a run through the fields between the two villages to touch the door of the other village's church, passing through the rolling hills of grains and flowers which seemed to go on forever. A deer literally bounded through the fields as we passed. I am from the country and I had never seen a deer bound like that. Looked fun.

Istanbul, Turkey: Micha and I spent a whole week exploring this spectacular city at a leisurely pace. Our first night we had dinner with Helen and Jesse at Mikla Restaurant. The view was something I will remember for the rest of my life. It was a hot summer evening, and while Micha and I had drinks on the rooftop bar prior to dinner, we watched the ships sailing around the Golden Horn and out into the Bosphorus. The sky was bright blue with a few fluffy clouds, which eventually faded into pink and orange sunset. We happened to be visiting during Ramadan, and as we sat down to our table for dinner (with practically a 270 degree view of the city), the sun set and the mosques all over the city lit, and we could hear the calls to prayer across the city. 

Many thanks again to Helen and Jesse for that memorable dinner. And thanks to Micha for being wonderful in general.

As for touring in Istanbul, the Hagia Sofia is definitely the most awe-inspiring building I have ever stepped foot in. As soon as I walked inside, the sight was just breathtaking. After this trip I think I can safely say I prefer mosques to churches. I like the massive, sky-like domes of mosques and the understated décor, all the geometric patterns and calligraphy. Micha and I stayed in a comfortable and perfectly well-equipped studio apartment through Sue Akyel on Airbnb in the Taksim area. We were very happy with our accommodations, which were easy to get to from the airport, close to all the nightlife of Istiklal street, and affordable for the great room and friendly, helpful hosts! The Çemberlitaş Hamam was an impressive one, and I just remember lying on this marble bathing platform (more like an altar of sorts, ha) under this big dome and having this older, topless Turkish woman rubbing all the dead skin off my body with steamy pleasingly aromatic soapy, warm steam filling the air around me. I can understand that a lot of people might be a bit…shy for the experience, but I very much enjoyed it.

Oslo, Norway: I visited Oslo in for a glorious reunion with my friends from Shanghai 2007 and Saya from DC, as well as attend the Øya music festival. Saya and I went on a run, oh you know, just a few miles down a wooded path around a beautiful lake complete with tree-lined island in the middle. After the run Saya fed me my all-time favorite everyday cheese: Norvegia complete with knakebrod (spelling?). With the entire group, besides laughing ourselves to death in Kevin’s apartment and day drinking cider in Oslo’s main park, we danced like crazy (often by ourselves, I think a lot of Norwegians avoid activities that have the potential to make them look uncool) to Dam Funk, Metronomy, the Black Keys, and Florence + the Machine. For the Black Keys concert, the ladies wore fake mustaches provided by Sanna and Steve, causing a stir and reporter briefly interviewing us.


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Revisiting all of this several months later, it’s amazing what one can remember with nothing to do but spend all day in the comforts of Mario’s apartment in Frankfurt! Again, last summer was a gift and a great way to take some time to explore and spend time with people I love and make me laugh from all over before starting graduate school. Writing this certainly puts me in a good mood.

Next up: recap of my first semester at SAIS.

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